Hitting all the right notes in New Orleans
We go backstage with the stars of Jazz Fest to bring you an insider-secret city guide from the musicians who know it best
“It’s one of those places you’re supposed to go only for a few days, but you just change the ticket home over and over.” So says legendary trumpet player Maurice Brown (pictured top) of the unique appeal of New Orleans. For the real inside track, we spoke to Brown and the other stars of the most recent Jazz Fest to get their insider take on how to make the most of the festival—and the city at large.
The Nola native
Tank and The Bangas formed out of the open-mic scene in New Orleans in 2011. Four albums and multiple Grammy nominations later, the group have reinvented the Southern soul sound and become Jazz Fest regulars. We spoke to lead singer and NOLA native Tarriona “Tank” Ball about exploring the city, corner-store po’boys, and why food and the festival go hand in hand.
What do you think makes New Orleans feel so different to anywhere else in America?
You can just feel that everyone has been there. We can’t even change a doorknob in certain places because of the historical value of it. When I walk into the French Quarter, I feel like I’m in Paris, you know? I can see the architecture of Spain in the jambalaya, the similarity to paella. It’s one of the most special cities in the world because it’s kept so much history. I feel it.
Where should someone start if they’re exploring the city for the first time?
Just walking around the French Quarter is pretty dope; it’s buzzing with life down there all the time. I would tell them to start at Café du Monde so that they could get them a beignet and some coffee, have the energy to walk around.
And once you’ve worked up a little appetite, where next?
Probably Morrow’s, which isn’t super far away from the Quarters. I will probably get the catfish and shrimp pasta. But if you’re just on the run, honestly any place around that, go get you a little po’boy. I like to get a shrimp po’boy from a corner store. I won’t get a po’boy at a fancy restaurant. I have to get it at a place that sells pig feet and turkey necks and crawfish. You gotta get it at a spot like that!
I won’t get a po’boy at a fancy restaurant
You tour all over the world with your band. What makes Jazz Fest feel different?
100% the food. Fest and food, they literally go hand in hand. You’re going to try some stuff you never had. Some crawfish bread, alligator, all types of weird delicious things that when you eat it, oh, it’s good. It’s always going to be something surprising to your taste buds. And the other aspect is the local artists: the Mardi Gras Indians and the brass bands and the stages that you definitely wouldn’t find anywhere else.
The seasoned performer
Maurice “Mobetta” Brown has worked with the biggest names in American music, from Aretha Franklin to The Roots. Originally from Illinois, the Grammy-winning trumpet icon spent several years in New Orleans studying and playing residencies. His Jazz Fest performances have been a highlight of recent years.
How did you get to know New Orleans?
I lived for about six years in New Orleans; I had the best time. I had a steady gig at Snug Harbor on Frenchmen Street—that was my jazz night, every Tuesday. I also had my hip-hop funk band, Mobetta and Soul’d U Out. We were playing all over the city—Tipitina’s and Funky Butt [since closed]. Back then, that was a great club.
And when was your first Jazz Fest?
1999, 2000, and I haven’t missed one since. It’s life-changing. From the musician’s side, it’s like a big family reunion. All the best players in the country get to come together. There’s such a good vibe there at the fairgrounds, so much love going around.
Is it mainly about the music for you, or is it more than that?
New Orleans is a big gumbo of cultures coming together, making this cornucopia of beautiful melodies and colors everywhere. You know, it’s so hard to explain, but I’m not overselling it—I’m underselling it! It’s one of those places you’re supposed to go only for a few days, but you just change the ticket home over and over.
And where are your favorite spots in town?
Jacques-Imo’s is one of my favorite restaurants. It’s uptown, and if you want a traditional New Orleans meal, they do a really good job. And the other good thing is it’s directly next door to Maple Leaf, which is a great music venue I used to play at a lot. And Frenchmen Street is my favorite place to hang out. You just get filled with so much music for two blocks.
Jazz Fest is life-changing—there’s such a good vibe
Finally, what does a perfect day in New Orleans look like?
Start off, go to Café du Monde, get an iced coffee and a beignet. And then maybe take a stroll by Armstrong Park. Then you could walk to Frenchmen Street or Bourbon Street. I like to stay at the Four Seasons or the Ritz-Carlton, which also has a jazz club inside of it. That’s pretty cool.
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So, this is your first time in the city?
My first time going to New Orleans, so I’m super excited to be a part of this. I just want to soak up as much of the city as possible. I’m a big jazz fan—so just to go to the birthplace of the genre itself is exciting. And the food, Bourbon Street… all the good stuff, you know?
You’re appearing as part of the Global Jam session, the multi-artist live event that Expedia is hosting at the city’s Joy Theater. What’s the preparation for that?
Originally, I thought it was going to be rehearsed but it’s literally the epitome of a jam—going in there with talented musicians, and just doing what feels right. We’re just gonna have some fun. You know, the Free Nationals and Anderson .Paak, we’re family, so to be able to just jam is normal for us. I’m gonna curate a good vibe.
Just to go to the birthplace of jazz itself is exciting
Does this sort of event give you a creative spark?
A night like that is definitely inspiring. For me, just being in a new environment invokes inspiration, for sure. But New Orleans, specifically, I feel will make me want to go back home and write some music with real instruments. Let’s put the production, the FruityLoops tools to the side. The energy is something that I’m excited to experience.
Meet the real stars of Jazz Fest
New Orleans is a great city to explore: walkable, warm and tightly focused around the French Quarter. These are our expert recommendations for where to eat, stay and play during your Jazz Fest journey.
