Surfing Hawaii’s “miracle” shore
Oahu’s North Shore is a surfer’s paradise, whether you want to watch the pros in action, or try it for yourself. A local big-wave legend shares the insider spots to know
“We call the North Shore our seven-mile miracle,” says local big-wave surfer David Stant. “Seven miles of pure, pristine surf and nature that is not found anywhere else in the world.”
Stant, now 62, has lived on the North Shore of Oahu—a stretch of coastline which has played an outsized role in shaping surf culture—for much of his life. He was born into surfing royalty, as his father was taught by Duke Kahanamoku, a Native Hawaiian who is considered the father of modern surfing for popularizing the sport in mainland America. When Stant Sr. took his son surfing for the first time, aged eight, Jr. was hooked right away.
Stant describes surfing on the North Shore as a “spiritual experience” that gives him mana, or what Native Hawaiians call “inner strength.” “I was never afraid of big waves and always felt at one with the spirits,” he says. “The ocean and surfing have always been my medicine.”
After high school, Stant was the American Surfing Association Champion and toyed with the idea of becoming a professional surfer, but he didn’t enjoy competing in small contest waves and instead chose to pursue football, his other love. He studied at the University of Hawaii so he could still surf the North Shore’s iconic big-wave spots, such as Waimea Bay, where he has surfed waves as high as 25 feet.
Today, many big-wave surfers rely on Jet Skis to tow them into giant waves, but Stant prefers to paddle, for the purity of the experience. “I love the drop,” he says. “It’s a totally different feeling to being towed, where you’re already traveling at the same speed as the wave.”
Stant suggests that the best time to watch big-wave surfing on the North Shore is in winter, when the powerful swells roll in. On some beaches, the waves are conveniently close to the shore, which makes for dramatic viewing—especially at Pipeline, a surf reef break where fast, barreling waves break over the shallows. “Pipeline would be your best view for close-ups,” explains Stant. (This area is also known as “Banzai Pipeline” if you’re trying to locate it on a mapping app.) “Sunset Beach and Haleiwa” are also recommended, and “Waimea is good too when it’s big, but it doesn’t break all the time.”
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These big-wave spots are for professional and expert surfers only—and spectators should always stay well back from the water’s edge—but there are plenty of beginner and intermediate waves on the North Shore where visitors can learn safely. Stant recommends Puaʻena Point and Chun’s Reef, both of which have several surf schools.
“Puaʻena is good, even in winter when it’s big,” he says. “It could be 20 feet at Waimea, but Puaʻena is fine and small as it’s in a sheltered cove. It’s a good learning wave as it has whitewater for beginners but as you go out it’s good for progression.”
In terms of surf schools, a favorite is Uncle Bryan’s Sunset Suratt Surf Academy. “Bryan Suratt is one of the guys from way back in the day and the lessons are really good and affordable,” he says. “He has a lot of ex-pro surfers on his team.” But even experienced surfers should always speak to the lifeguards before getting in the water, says Stant. “Because they’ll tell you the best spots to go for your level of experience.”
If the surf is flat, Stant recommends heading to the skate park at Sunset Beach to watch the local skaters: “It’s one of the best on the island and there are always a lot of good skateboarders coming out of there.”
Though if you’re looking for Stant in person, you’ll most likely find him in the ocean. “I still go to the beach every day after work,” he says. “I might not surf but I’ll always jump in the water,” he says. “It calms the soul. We are very blessed to live here.”
From barreling breaks worthy of the pros to gentler, beginner-friendly swells, the North Shore has waves to suit any surfer. Throw in beautiful sunsets, beachside street-food stalls and board stores aplenty, and you have a true surfer’s paradise. These are the spots not to miss.
Sam Haddad is a journalist specializing in action sports, travel, and the environment, whose work has appeared in The Guardian, 1843, Raconteur, and Huck Magazine. She has visited 46 countries.
