By Marseille’s standards, Vauban is a new neighborhood, established in the 19th century on land once used for quarrying rock. Before that, nascent Christian cults hid from Roman authorities here. Seeing a revival lately, the neighborhood is now full of trendy restaurants, cafés and shops. Many spots take advantage of their location to provide beautiful views of the city below. When you visit Vauban, climb uphill to the basilica and wander around the streets, getting a sense of the new Marseille.
On the way uphill, relax in the Jardin de la Colline’s gardens before continuing. Let the panoramic vistas of Notre-Dame de la Garde inspire you. Appreciate the sentimentality of the small boat models hanging from the ceilings, offering prayers for safety for generations of sailors coming into this port.
Explore the neighborhood’s other religious institutions, including the whitewashed exterior of the Église Saint François d’Assise or the stained glass and intricate stonework of the Grand Synagogue de Marseille. A different kind of history, no less important to the creation of the Marseillais spirit, imbues the Maison du Peuple, inspired by the working-class people who built this city.
The crown of the 6th Arrondissement, Vauban is directly south of the Vieux Port. Get here from the main train station in about 35 minutes on foot, 22 minutes by public transportation or 12 minutes driving. Vauban is located on the steepest part of the hill leading up to the cathedral, perhaps difficult to walk for people with health problems. All of the main avenues have bus lines, however. Street parking is available but limited. The Notre-Dame de la Garde has a metered parking lot.
Vauban remains not quite as built up as the rest of the city. See how residents have taken advantage of that in the community garden of Avanti Vauban!, which practically explodes with produce planted by locals.
