The relics of the Three Kings made this church Milan’s most important pilgrimage site, and today it is also home to an impressive Renaissance chapel.
Visit the Basilica di Sant’Eustorgio and you will see that even from the exterior it’s clear that it’s no ordinary church. On top of its bell tower, instead of the traditional cross, a metal star glints in the sun. The star is a symbol of the Three Magi (Kings) whose relics, it is said, were brought here in the 4th century by the church’s namesake after the donkeys pulling their cart refused to go any further. See their tomb today, with portions of the relics nearby, then appreciate early Renaissance art in the adjacent Capella Portinari.
Before entering, notice to the left of the elaborate 19th-century façade a marble pulpit. It was carved in 1597 to replace one from which it is said Saint Peter Martyr once preached.
Walk into the main body of the church, whose two aisles have vaulted ceilings that seem to stretch up through the roof. Walk slowly down the right side, which is marked by a series of 14th and 15th century chapels featuring beautiful examples of Renaissance art.
Pause before the Three Kings sarcophagus, whose geographical origin was revealed by the discovery of ancient coins minted by the Emperor Constans during an excavation in 1764. Notice at the front of the apse the remnants of the Romanesque church, and below it the remnants of the early church that first welcomed these remains.
Continue on to the Capella Portinari, one of the first examples of Renaissance art in Milan. Admire the fine coloring of the Lombard frescoes by Vincenzo Foppa, and the smooth forms of Giovanni di Balduccio’s marble sepulcher, which highlight the famous Ark of Saint Peter Martyr.
The Basilica di Sant’Eustorgio is located in the southern part of Milan’s central district, not far from the Parco Giovanni Paolo II. Take public transportation or drive from Milano Centrale station in about 25 minutes.
The church opens to visitors daily from the early morning to noon and then again from the mid-afternoon to mid-evening. The Capella Portinari opens Tuesday to Sunday from the mid-morning to the early evening. Access to the main church is free, but there is an admission fee for the Capella Portinari.
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