Nic von Rupp: A surfer’s guide to Lisbon
Professional big-wave rider and Lisbon native Nic von Rupp talks surf philosophy, local hospitality, and his favorite spots in the Portuguese capital
“In Portugal, everything is about the beach,” says Nic von Rupp. “Lisbon is a capital city, but it’s surrounded by nature. It’s surrounded by peace. It’s filled with food and beautiful people.”
After a lifetime spent in and around the city, the Lisbon-born surfer’s love for his hometown remains undimmed. His enthusiasm as he shows us around is effusive—fitting for someone whose passion has led him to the very top of his profession.
Having traveled the world as a professional big-wave surfer since his late teens, von Rupp is expertly qualified to vouch for the unique qualities of his homeland. Initially scared of the risks that come with the sport (“I wasn’t really the bravest kid in the class… it was such a wide ocean, so broad”), he overcame his fears thanks to the all-encompassing power of nature in this region, where huge Atlantic waves make landfall on a stunning, rugged coastline after thousands of miles of travel.
“That’s really beautiful, that we get to be part of that journey,” he says. “And it gives you a big respect for the ocean here—she’s the boss.”
For von Rupp, surfing is both therapy and a kind of religious experience, and he talks of the sea as an intrinsic part of life here.
“Our main resources are the ocean, so we’ve got some of the best fish in the world,” he says. “We have those beautiful sunset spots where you overlook the city. There’s the sound of the ocean and the birds, a lot of street artists that play really good guitar music.”
He also enthuses about the towns of the Sintra region just to the west of Lisbon, where visitors flock to see the classic blue-and-white-tiled Portuguese architecture, and to dine at the town’s rustic seafood restaurants.
Hearing him talk about Lisbon—which he describes as feeling like “a big but small town”— it’s hard to imagine a surfer would want to live anywhere else. “It’s the only capital city in the world that has amazing waves,” he says. There’s also a suggestion that it’s this extraordinary oceanside location that accounts for Lisbon’s temperament: “The people are just happy,” says von Rupp. “They always have smiles on their faces—and they’re incredibly welcoming to visitors.”
In Lisbon, the ocean and the outdoors shape who we are
It’s why he suggests that Lisbon is a perfect destination not just for visiting with friends, but also for going it alone and making new ones. “You’ll end up meeting a lot of people that you wouldn’t if you were traveling in that bubble. Just get out there—go in the streets, go to the cafés, go to the bars, go to the beach. Being active like that is the best way to explore—I’m 100% sure, it’s the easiest way!”
Nic von Rupp’s perfect day in Lisbon
10 a.m. Hit the beach
“You really have to go to Adraga,” says von Rupp. “It’s incredible.” An especially beautiful beach, even by the standards of Lisbon’s breathtaking coastline, Praia da Adraga is a haven for locals looking to swim and sunbathe beneath the dramatic cliffs.
“And there are so many good restaurants too. They’re not trendy or fancy, but they’re authentic and the food lives up to any five-star restaurant there is. In Portugal, the less fancy the place, the better the food.”
12:30 p.m. Lunch like a local
“For me, Bar do Fundo is one of the most incredible restaurants in Portugal,” von Rupp says of this casual eatery, perched right on the beach. Close to von Rupp’s childhood home of Praia Grande, it’s very much in line with his Portuguese food philosophy, with a relaxed, unassuming vibe belying the quality of the dishes served there.
Surfboards can be safely stashed outside, and steal a photo opp by the giant wave murals nearby. And what should we order? “I love the octopus.”
2:30 p.m. Explore a clifftop town
“The whole coast of Sintra is still very authentic,” says von Rupp. And around 2.5 miles north of Praia Grande is the picturesque clifftop town of Azenhas do Mar, which in the mid 20th century became an enclave for upmarket Lisbon families.
Named after the watermills which once operated there, today its most notable attraction is its natural swimming pool, which is filled by seawater at high tide. In the summer months the poolside bar serves food, and head upstairs to the main restaurant with the tuna steak highly recommended.
6 p.m. Take in the sunset
“Jardim do Torel is a magical place,” says von Rupp of one of Lisbon’s best sunset spots. As well as tree-lined pathways and benches to sit on and watch the world go by, the 18th-century park has its own public swimming pool, complete with urban beach.
8 p.m. Shop and spin
“I love music, I listen to everything,” says von Rupp, who suggests an evening visit to Amor Records, a renowned Brazilian-founded record shop in Lisbon’s Santa Cruz neighborhood.
Amor not only stocks a carefully curated selection of vinyl from all over the world and every conceivable genre, it doubles as a listening space, and a convivial spot where music lovers can gather over a coffee or a mocktail (check the Fresh Citrus or Ginger Lemonade). “This neighborhood is super cool,” says von Rupp. “It’s old-school Lisbon.”
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Leanne Cloudsdale is a communications consultant and design journalist. Her writing has appeared in Arena Homme+, Beauty Papers, i-D, Riposte and AnOther Magazine.
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