In the commercial center of Jerusalem, glitzy boutiques line old-fashioned streets and upscale neighborhoods bustle with locals and visitors alike.
The modern side of the city, West Jerusalem has a more cosmopolitan vibe than its eastern counterpart. Much of the action is centered around the pedestrian Downtown Triangle, made up of Jaffa Street, King George Street and Ben Yehuda Street. Here, cafés spill out onto the pavements, souvenir shops sell everything from jewelry to Jewish art, and street performers wow passing crowds. Visit on a Saturday night to enjoy people-watching, as young Israelis from Tel Aviv and Jerusalem come to eat, drink and socialize after the Shabbat.
Although it is a newer, more developed area, West Jerusalem still features the same honey-colored stone that’s common throughout the city. A local bylaw from 1918 ensures even the high-rises are constructed with traditional materials to retain a historical look. Experience the old-fashioned atmosphere best in the lanes and courtyards of atmospheric Nachlaot.
A new cultural hub south of the Triangle is housed in Jerusalem’s oldest railway station. Daily events such as concerts and vintage markets draw visitors from all over the city. Stroll through the gardens just north of the station to enjoy some shade in the summer.
Machane Yehuda Market, west of the Triangle, is the food highlight of Jerusalem. Come here to sample delicious Israeli cuisine and plenty of fruit, nuts and fresh juices. Alternatively, spend your shekels in the luxury retail area at Alrov Mamilla Avenue.
Museums are more spread out here than in the Old City, but venture out and you will find a couple of excellent attractions. Far west, the poignant Yad Vashem is a memorial to the millions of Jews who died during World War II. Visit the Israel Museum, in the Givat Ram neighborhood, for a good introduction to Jewish culture. Displays cover marriage ceremonies and other traditions, and ancient biblical manuscripts are on show.
While much of West Jerusalem itself is walkable, the Light Railway and express buses provide a fast way of getting from one end of the city to the other. Buy day passes for selected buses or a reloadable Rav-Kav card for the trains. Taxis are also inexpensive and quick.
