It takes 1,000 butterflies to weigh one pound (.45kg), and the branches on this tree were sagging under the weight.

The monarch colony here was quite different than at the more popular El Rosario sanctuary. 40 minutes outside Zitacuaro, near El Capulin, we chartered a couple of tiny mountain horses to take us up the rugged path to view the colony. The monarchs were clustered within a ravine, swirling around a few choice pine trees in search of sunny roosts. Whenever the sun went behind a cloud the butterflies scrambled into the air and back to the safety of the nucleus, knowing that settling down for the night outside the warmth of the colony would mean certain death.

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Our top choices for Donato Guerra inns

Hotel Casa Valle

Avandaro

Fertz

$89 nightly

Dec 16 - Dec 17

Total with taxes and fees

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Top Donato Guerra Hotel Reviews

Hotel Valle Bonito, Valle de Bravo

8/10 Good

"Excelente estadía. Ubicación excelente y las instalaciones y el cuarto muy limpio. Un poco ruidoso y había poco papel higiénico, y había que estar pidiendo. Pero el personal super amable y atento. "

Casa Chichipicas Hotel Boutique

10/10 Excellent

"The property I gorgeous and small, so very few guests. It's ideal if you just want to stay in the property and relax. The staff was next level, the restaurant was very good and all the areas are very clean and beautiful. If you do want to walk around the town it's not a long walk but, like most of Valle, it's a lot of steep streets so Taxi's are more viable. Will definitely go back!"