Make a short trip north from Rome’s ancient ruins to a quiet city filled with medieval architecture and papal history.
In the 13th century, Viterbo was important as the papal residence for two decades. Visit today to view original and restored buildings in Viterbo’s Historic Centre, a picturesque area surrounded by walls dating back to the 11th century.
The Palazzo dei Papi, where several popes lived and died, is an outstanding example of architecture that draws visitors to explore narrow cobbled streets surrounded by medieval stone buildings. Notice a grand staircase leading to a loggia with surprisingly delicate pillars, contrasting with fortified walls topped by crenelated battlements.
The Viterbo Cathedral or Cattedrale di San Lorenzo occupies the southern side of the plaza fronting the palace. Study the bronze relief doors before you enter. Look for a 14th-century Madonna fresco, a 15th-century baptismal font, and an unadorned high wooden ceiling.
As you stroll along Viterbo’s streets, you’ll see typical medieval buildings of thick stone and hand-made bricks in varying shades of beige. Notice exterior stone staircases and arched windows and doors that create distinction among buildings. Find coffee shops and cafés tucked inside these ancient buildings.
Come to Viterbo in early September for the Festa di Santa Rosa, when 100 men carry the 90-foot-tall (27-meter) Macchina di Santa Rosa through town. The giant lighted obelisk honors Viterbo’s patron saint.
Drive about 20 minutes from Viterbo to other interesting towns. Montefiascone is north near Lago di Balsena. Enjoy famed wines and restaurants and admire the Basilica of Santa Margherita, with a huge dome. Continue northeast to Civita di Bagnoregio, a tiny town on a rocky, eroding promontory that you’ll reach via an elevated footbridge. Enjoy exceptional views and chat with the handful of people still living here.
Bomarzo, northeast of Viterbo, has Sacro Bosco, an unusual 16th-century garden. Step through an ancient gate to view large moss-covered monster sculptures in the shapes of a turtle, ogres and a wide-mouthed Orcus, an underworld god.
Drive 1 hour from Rome’s northern outskirts to reach Viterbo or ride the train in about 1.5 hours.
