Bars are the staple of Greek nightlife, with new establishments opening every week. In summer, many of the most popular spots, especially dance clubs, move to temporary venues along the coast (check with your hotel concierge on seasonal whereabouts of clubs). Frequented by the under-30 crowd, these clubs are usually huge, lively, and packed. Getting to them can be a nightmare, especially on weekends, when the coastal road, Poseidonos, becomes a kilometers-long traffic jam. Parking requires creative maneuvers, and given the penchant for drinking and driving, pedestrians should be cautious when crossing roads.
Most bars stay open at least until 3 AM. Drinks are rather steep (around EUR6) but generous, and often there is a surcharge on weekend nights at the most popular clubs, which also usually have bouncers, aptly called "face-control" by Greeks. Foreigners usually get in automatically; large groups of single men may have some trouble on a busy night. Most clubs and bars do not take credit cards for drinks.
Many tourists think Greek social life centers on large clubs, where live bouzouki music is played and patrons get their kicks by smashing up the plates. This practice, called spasta, is now prohibited. Instead, plates of flowers are sold for scattering over the performer or your companions when they take to the dance floor.
The Greek equivalent of the urban blues, rembetika, is rooted in the traditions of Asia Minor and was brought to Greece by refugees from Smyrna in the 1920s. At these thriving clubs, you can catch a glimpse of Greek social life and even join the dances. Most of the clubs are closed in the summer, so call in advance.
Films are shown in original-language versions with subtitles, a definite boon for foreigners. For times and addresses, check the Athens News or Kathemerini in the International Herald Tribune. Unless theaters have air-conditioning, most close June-September, giving way to therina, open-air cinemas that declined in popularity after the arrival of television. Recently, there has been a resurgence in their appeal, and about 75 now operate in the greater Athens area.